australian lada niva forum

After changeing the clutch and rear housing on my gearbox it now wont go into reverse.
I am changeing the leaking pan gasket in a few days so I am planning on winding the reverse gear switch out to verify that is not causeing the problem, the switch has the washer underneath but is it still possible for it to protrude in to far?
Any bright ideas?
Oh it used to go into reverse prior.
All this is while the vehicle is parked not moving,

is it going into the slot,or feels like it's jamming???

have had reverse light switches fitted without the washer,that definetly caused problems....

The lever wont move back past the gate/neutral position,
My spare gearbox does
I still havent had an indepth look yet

bob,

is it doing this with engine off???

andy

Yeah it is doing it with both the engine on and off.
The lever moves back a tad from neutral but I can fell the selectors arent moving
I have pulled the gearbox pan off to change the gasket but I havent wound the reverse switch out yet (I brought the wrong spanners home)

hi bob,

is the lever being depressed when going back into reverse...
some seem to have to be pushed bit harder than others

also recheck clutch adjustment,just in case

whoops,and remember to overfill box by 1/2 litre,using castrol vmx-m

andy

I tried pressing the gear lever down and hello!!!! it goes into reverse.
I whacked the new gasket on (thanks Andy) put the oil back in and went for a blast around the block and three new issues have turned up,

A vibration that will rattle your fillings out!, I only got into second, Im thinking tyres here. its a up and down typr vib I think.

Brakes need a bleed.

Clutch pickup is too soon, 1/2 inch off the floor and the clutch starts to engage.

I may need to get some of those faggy little kung fu slippers that all the trendies are wearing down here because my size 11 blundies arnt really cut out for Niva driving!!!

Well I pumped up my 175/16 knobbley biscuit tyres and got rid of one of the vibrations, but the transfer case levers are shaking like hell when driveing and the vib is certainly comeing from there, I installed it back in the same position I removed it from when I did the clutch but I dont know that its was correct beforehand.
All unis are ok and the donut appears ok

Adjustment time I guess,I might loosen the T/C nuts a bit and drive to work and see if it self centres, if not its plan B, no shortage of info on how to to it though

t/case into neutral
g/box into 4th
from now until end,you will need the revs to be held steady as........
get revs held between 3,500-4,000rpm
loosen t/case mounts
leave for few moments
tighten mounts up
drop revs back

easy as

i know of a lada workshop who used to charge an hour labour to adjust t/case

Thanks Andy, I'll do that tomorrow morning, it will be easier with my new quiet exhaust!
then I will change T/C and diff oils.

Thanks Andy,
As per phone call I did the 4000 rpm adjustment, the vibration around 30-40 kms now seems less but still excessive.
I will change the flexable coupling and then give it another shot, since when I had it out and reinstalled it all six bolts went in easy as,(not normal).
And as murphys law would have it, the gearbox was leaking out of the rear housing and not the pan gasket!!!!!
so I'll change that too, on the hoist this time not the carport dirt!

transfer case leaking now too!

yikes......

haven't go too much play in one of those input/output brgs??????

Its seaping from the small housing that the speedo cable goes into,
I"ll ring you soon Andy and grab a gasket. I just want to do some blasting first!!!!

I whacked the new flexable coupling in last night and did the 3500 to 4000 rpm thing and now I have no vibrations!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I slid the rear housing of the gearbox back to change the leaking gasket also and when I drained the gearbox oil it was dirty as after only 100-150kms!!!! so I put new oil in and now it shifts beautifully (VMX-M),plus changed the the diffs and t/c oils,
Just gotta rebleed those brakes and its all go!