australian lada niva forum

This Is my current project Guys, Its a post over on the UK Lada forum but thought I would post it here for those interested.

I Plan on getting a website up with a shiteload of downloadable tech stuff, Which is where I'll keep the build progress.

It's everyones input, advice and experience that is going to help build this Niva.


Here It Is. Project Nu-Raski-Niva. Been a while in the making but things are starting to fall into place and thought it was about time to get the ball rolling.

I'll update the thread as often as possible and plan to soon move the build to a webpage, where it can be viewed alot more in depth. Everyone likes pics So I thought I'd remember to take as many as possible

The Project:

Nu-Raski-Niva is a 1997 Pea green 1.7 Solex carb'd Niva. I bought her With 150,000km on the clock and in very good shape bar rust here and there.



I also bought a Spares Niva for $100



I took the front and rear Diffs (4:1 original were 3.9) out of the Spare Niva and installed into Nu-Raski, this was due to me dropping into a deep rut and cracking the front diff.

Then I rolled her..






I'd been having engine troubles since then so have now changed Fuel filter, spark plugs, Air filter, Coolant and have installed a Weber Carb. The Weber makes a big difference but still isn't jetted correctly Will be playing with her this weekend.

The Plan:

I want a trouble free reliable go anywhere vehicle, I already have one. All I want to do is improve its original engineering and equipment. Most of my 4WDing is Laning, Beach and a bit of mud. Not to much extremeness or axle bending flex ruts. I would like to be able to crawl hills.

For those of you who saw the ad Hoodoo posted regarding the 1.9 Diesel Niva in Inverness with the load of spares, I'm now the proud owner of those spares, Remember I'm from Australia but plan to ship it all over.

What I know I've got is this: 3 Gearboxes, 3 Front diff's, 3 Rear diffs, 3 Transfercases, 1.9 Turbo Intercooled Peugeot diesel engine, Sets of wheels, Doors with window mechanisms, and a whole bunch of other stuff.

All this is going to make for a good fun off-road vehicle with no worries of breaking the main driveline.

Now I've also got a 2L 132 Fiat and 3sp Auto sitting at my mates unit!

I was also considering fitting a GM Ecotec 1.8-2.2L engine and gearbox like the ones in the Chevy Niva.

Which ever way I lean to I will be needing more power for the tires I want to run and trails I want to do. I was leaning towards the turbo diesel as torque is my best friend and it would be an easy(ish) swap. I would however modify the turbo, intake, computer and intercooler for off-roading. Also heard a bit about Diesel Gas Injection is this heard of over in the UK.

What to do, What to do?

Now back to the Plans, I'm removing the paint, dents, rust and whatever else is in there! Going down to bare metal and will coat with a very heavy duty rust preventable coat. (There's gotta be some Military spec stuff on the market) Then respray in a new colour scheme. Back seat is already removed and will be making a full internal rollcage out of Chromoly Steel, Seats and belts will be removed and replaced with lightweight race seats and harness's.

She'll be getting a 2" Hoodoo inspired lift and cut guards and Fender flares, I'm getting these from Cassiano the maker of the X-NIVA and are the same mould used on the X-NIVA.



Also from the same genius:

I've got a Proper niva snorkel



Alloy engine guard



Carbon fibre roof scoop with air ventilation



I'll make up some side steps/rock sliders and front and rear bars to lose some weight and angle. Front bar will have a low mount winch. Rear bar will carry a spare tire.

I'll either keep the 4.1's in or use the 4.3's I have depends on which engine I go with, In the end I'll have hopefully a KAM Diffs Manual Locker (If the group buy goes well) in the front and a KAM Diffs Manual Locker with LSD in the rear



If not I'll have to settle with K&S.

I'm really considering a T/C gearchange as I like the idea of a really low low, I think High range with 4.3 and any of the above engines would still be quiet capable, especially with the lockers.

Cooling the engine / bay will be twin 12" thermo fans out of an AU Falcon (Flow more than Davies Craig aftermarket fans) and I'm going to cut and weld lourves into my bonnet for extra cooling in the engine bay.

Suspension side of things I'm going with Rancho Adjustable shocks with MyRide Incab adjustable controller. 4 on the back and 2 on the front, both getting strengthened mounts. Stock springs with Hoodoo type lift.

Power will get to the ground via these 31" Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's



Threads open to chat, suggestions and banter boys!!!!!

Hope you enjoy reading and following my project.

Scott.

After reading what Edddy had to say about his Sons Twin cam equipped Niva, I'm straying heavily towards the 1.9 Peugeot tdi. Reasons being

- It can be fitted rather easily (same sort of work required as Twin cam engine)

- The engine can be mechanically tuned (Turbo and fuel settings) to upto 130bhp and 200nm of torque. Torque being the key number here.

- It's diesel, which better suits my need for torque and economy.

I'm also going to be dropping the Crossmember 2" Thanks to Simonallen and Raising the body 2" Thanks to Hoodoo.

- Paint job is starting to look like a scheme, I'm pretty sure I want an old school Rally look, Like the Aussie off-road Nivas that Toxicbugman posted up. Beats plain colours, If I do go a flat colour it will be white with Old style rally stickers.

I'm going to start the body work this weekend. Rust is getting worse, I can see it happening, Will be filling in all the little infamous spots.

- When it comes to Rust-proofing? Anyone got any recommendations for what to use? The body will be coming back to bare metal and getting a good covering.

I'm hoping to get the Brazil parts around Christmas and start work on the mechanical things the start of the year. - I've still got to sort out the freight of my Niva parts from the UK.



Scott.

I tip Scottie,

I've got a Peugeot 405 SRDT (1.9L turbo Diesel). and I've looked into the same engine swap myself. I had a closer look at the sump of the diesel, and the diagrams of the Lada's 1.9L diesel in the manuals, and they seem to have the same sump.... that is, the sump already has the notches in it. The only thing you really need to worry about is the engine mounts and adapter plate.

As for your bringing back to bare metal, how are you going to go about that? I'm going to be looking at something similar with mine, get all the rust out thats starting to show up, and strengthen the body in the back where it's needed.

I'll be using paint stripper then hand tools and sand paper mate! Getting everything off, cut out any rust i cant fix, replace (Mig weld) with same gauge steel, skim with a shop quality automotive bog, Give a coat with the chosen Rust stopper stuff (Either will be a primer in the rust stuff or need another coat of primer depending on the chosen brand)

I'll be covering the underside with the Rust stuff also (Body is pretty good nick for most of the WA Niva's I've seen so It's a bit of a blessing to get it done before it gets Worse!)

I'll upload a crapload of pics of how I go about it, Should be this weekend if not earlier. May have to use an arc (Not recommended but can't get my hands on a MIG, It will be fine for 3-5 years anyway.)

I also plan on doing the following while the welder is out:

- Make new shock mounts for the front and rear out of some solid steel. (Rear will be having 4 shocks so I need to sort out the best place to make the double mount)

- I've attached pictures of where I am going to weld.


Spot 1 - The 4x4 sign on each side of the niva. This part of the body is recessed, I'm going to be filling that with weld and bog and fitting new badges, If you wanted to you could leave them off and paint over it.

Spot 2 - Going to see if that will push or pull out, if not cut out. (That was the only ding on her when I got her)

Spot 3 - Under the front of the doors either side there is once again a recess filling with rust so will remove and fill.

Spot 4 - Another recess at the top of each side of the front windscreen to be welded.

Spot 5 - The rear hatch latches are rusting will have a look, may weld them together to stop rust build up there.

Spot 6 & 8 - Top and bottom of hatch looks to be eaten through but haven't checked so far.

Spot 7 - Seal Damaged (Will be replacing all windows seals).

Spot 9 - Last but not least of the lil buggers. One on each side.

Theres still tiny little bits here and there but the plan is to get to everything I can see first then do a bare metal strip down after the mechanics are ready to drop in.

Scott.


P.S Great news about the Sump, I'll be dropping the Crossmember and having a steel front diff so that may not even be a problem if it could be, Cause I'd heard they are different? Maybe different sumps different models? Good chance? Maybe the 405 is the sump to use then?

nice work, I've got all the same spots on mine except in the rear, as I don't have a roof obveously.

I'll take some pics of the sump of the peugeot when I get it home from the mechanics, and will post up for you when I can. they've had to re-bend the head back into shape, don't know whats happened but not happy with it, it was a brand new head....

Nice snorkel. Where did you get it may I ask?

Haven't got it yet Chua will be coming over Xmas due to holiday pay .

It's coming from Brazil mate.

Can I ask what the snorkel is costing from Brazil...........

Hi Scottie,

Some information that might help you. I have shipped a car from the UK in a 'part container' where my car was put in and other people's stuff placed around it. The cost for the actual shipping, excluding customs etc on arrival in Oz was £1024. For the items you have it would be less obviously. Shipping took about 6 weeks. One thing to make sure is that any wood used in packing is acceptable for Australia, it can be a nightmare with extra fumigation and quarantine costs if not. You definitely need an agent this end, I have heard some real horror stories where people have tried to do the import themselves and ended up with huge costs and hassle.

I shipped with excess international movers http://www.excess-international.com/rem ... movals.php but there are plenty of others. One problem for you is that Inverness is about as far as you can get from Southampton or Tilbury which are the main container ports so that part might end up costing you a bit as well.

Hope this helps.